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Canal House Cooks Lunch: shucked English peas; baby white turnips (sweet as candy); small, firm yellow squash and zucchini (plus two pinky-size zucchini); spring onions; a not-quite-dead-ripe tomato (peeled, of course); zucchini flowers; and a handful of foraged chanterelles. We let the vegetables sing their own song, doing nothing more than blanching or stewing them with fresh tarragon, bathing them in lots of salted butter, adding a splash of extra-virgin olive oil, and seasoning them with a crushed pepperoncini, salt, and pepper.

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